Thursday, May 7, 2015

A fun Q and A session with Sunday Magazine......

Classes; for the make-up enthusiast in you!

I have been a make-up artist for close on to 20 years now. I am addicted to the rush of seeing a woman look at herself in the mirror with my make-up on and seeing something beautiful in her face that she didn't see before.  In every appointment I wait for that moment. When women give themselves the "well, hello there, you gorgeous thing you!" look.

So it was with even greater pleasure that I realised that I also seemed to have the ability to write and teach. Giving women this power for themselves became a second kind of rush. Showing someone the beauty in their faces, pointing it out, showing them how to accent it and highlight it....this became a second source of great pleasure for me.

Soon I was being asked by girls who wanted to become make-up artists themselves if I would train them to be professionals. I jumped right in and I have trained many, many professional make-up artists by this point.....some of whom went on to work for me and do till this day! Training professionals, I found, gave me a thrill as well! Seeing an artist create excellent looks with techniques that I made up...or do the perfect liner and walk tall....well what could be better?

So over the past 15 or so years I have created different kinds of classes to suit my style of teaching and to try and address all of the needs that an interested make-up enthusiast might have.

I found I wanted to do away with group classes, as time went by. Unless there is a group you can't feel like you aren't keeping a troubled student myself growing up I felt that make-up classes, at least,  should not be a place for stress. If it's just you, then you don't feel pressured by what the others in the class are up to. I teach you one on one and there is no hurry. All the time in the world to get it right.

So here then are the kinds of courses that I created. I find all versions fun and challenging.

1) The Foundation Course:

In this course I teach you most of the technique that you need to do make-up. But on your own face. I feel that if you learn on yourself you pretty quickly gauge when things are becoming too much, or too cakey, or not bringing out the best in you. I have seen this over the years; a make up artists does what they think is an excellent job, but their client is uncomfortable with the result. This comes from putting what you think is a pretty mask on to your client's face. It's not them anymore......they are wearing your work. So I feel it is absolutely key to practice on yourself when you are first learning so that you understand when too much is.......well...... too much!

In the first course we cover:

* Bases
* Face Structure
* Eye Structure
* Eye make-up step by step
*Colour theory
*Pairing blush, lip and eye
* A good, core kit

This is a bullet point way of saying I teach you pretty much all there is to know about make-up! There are obviously some advanced techniques that you will learn after this but the core is right here. This is the kind of class that anyone who wants to learn their way around their own faces MUST do. I wish make-up classes were mandatory in school! It's a tool that we all deserve!

Our basic course is for Rs.65,000 (plus GST) and runs for 15-18 hours.......or till I think you are good enough to go!

2)The Advanced course:

This course is for professionals. Even as a professional you would need to start with the first course since most of the basic theory that is particular to my technique is taught there. In this course you finally apply your knowledge on other faces. Many students ask for other little details they would like to learn......lashes application......dupatta pinning.........that's up to you! It's fairly tailor made. You will again learn on my make-up.....this enables you to decide which products and brushes you would like to include in and send for in your own, final kit.

In the second course we:

*help you create a portfolio of looks that will be the core of your repertoire
*once these are created you will do one every class and I will review and correct each one
*you will learn some advanced eye make-up techniques that only a hand with some practice will be able to grasp

Our advanced course is for Rs. 100,000 (Plus GST)  and also runs for 15-18 hours.

And if you are excellent I usually try and get you to come and work for me!

3) The hour long class:

This class is simple. It's  a question that I can answer in an hour!

How do I do my base?

Show me how to wear a red lipstick?

How do I do a smokey eye?

How do I do a seriously epic liner?

This class is for Rs. 6,000. (plus GST)

I hope I have answered clearly all of the questions I get about classes and here are a few images to give you a little peek in to the process. (Do keep in mind that we no longer run group classes)

So let's start with one of the best students I have ever had. This is the work of a student who I insisted become a member of my team. She still comes and works with me whenever her busy schedule as a mum allows her to. This is her work on my sister in law Zara Madani. You can see her flawless technique,...I taught her completely from scratch!
Make-up by Meher Bano Qureshi
You get to learn on my your starter kit is pretty vast! 

Do any of you recognise another member of my team? Here is a very young Afrah Rizwan doing her foundation course before she got married. 5 years later she did her advanced course and became a make up artist at the salon! 

Every student leaves with a hand drawn, comprehensive sketch book which is your make-up bible. I encourage new students to keep this open and follow each step as you begin to learn. That way you don't develop bad habits that you will have to unlearn as you go along.

When I say detailed sketches...I mean detailed sketches......
Sometimes your eyes get tired with all the practice.....I demonstrate how to practice on the back of my hand. And if you can make it look 3D on a flat surface...imagine the nuance on your eye! 

Learn which brushes you need for which effect and shape....
Here we see a clarins small eye shadow brush, a stila #4 brush and a real techniques small detailer brush. Try all of them during class and see which one you want to send for in the end! 

Students crack up during their graduation picture.....

Sometimes you get to see demos on famous faces! Here you can see me getting Sanam Saeed ready for her apperance as Roxy Heart in "Chicago" as a class looks on! You can see the exaggerated contouring here for the stage.
Graduating classes with their certificates! 
Discussing technique......

Learn how to apply lashes.....individual or strip.

There are so many M.A.C lipsticks......but which ones work for our skin tones? I will show you which ones and how to make the colours of the season work for you! 

Students at work! 

Monday, May 4, 2015

Imaan Madani as this season's bride in a gorgeous Sana Safinaz Bridal

Hair and make-up by Bina Khan
Photography by Bina Khan and Danish rasheed
Read the whole article where it originally appeared in the link below!

DIVA cover

Make up for Sana, Safinaz and Sania Maskatiya
by Bina Khan
Photography by Rizwan ul Haq

Aamina Sheikh for Images (Dawn)

Hair by Nadya Hussain
Make-up by Bina Khan
Photography by Shamyl Khuhro

Sanam Chaudhri (Head of the Pakistan Fashion Council) for Sunday Times

Hair, make-up by Bina Khan
Photography by Bina Khan and Danish Rasheed

Sanam Saeed as a 50's ingenue for Hello! Pakistan's Hot 100

Hair, make-up, photography by Bina Khan

Sanam or Audrey? :-)

Bridal make-up trends with stunning Sana Safinaz Bridals!

Hair and make-up by Bina Khan
Photography by Shamyl Khuhro
Bridal Couture by Sana Safinaz

Tanya Shafi Khan for Sanya Muneer Couture

Hair and Make-up by Bina Khan
Photography by Shamyl Khuhro

Magazine Covers from 2014!

Sharmeen Obaid Chinoy for Hello! Pakistan
(Hair, make-up, photography by Bina Khan)

Aamina Sheikh for Hello! Pakistan
Hair, make-up and photography by Bina Khan

Imaan Madani for Paperazzi Magazine
Hair and make up by Bina Khan
Photography by Danish Rasheed

Syra Shahroz for Sunday Magazine
Hair and make-up by Bina Khan

Tuesday, April 28, 2015

The art of illuminating ; "Glow by Glow" from the "Let's make-up" column for The Express Tribune

Unlike the rest of the people of the world who try to look glowy in the summer, in the land of the merciless sun we need to try to look cool and collected. Shimmer in the middle of June can lead to you looking overheated; so be circumspect. In the winter, however, you can glow like you mean it. Here’s how to do it all!

Where, how and why?
Imagine a face and body, all oiled up, lying in the sun. The sun creates shadows in the crevices of the body and makes brilliant bright spots on the tops of bones and swells of flesh. The tip of a shoulder is a beautiful glowy point; the hollow behind the collar bone is a beautiful dark shadow. Check out the fantastic Italian Vogue cover, shot by Steven Meisel. While the shoot is a dark commentary on the 2010 Gulf oil spill, it does beautifully demonstrate the image I am trying to draw for you. Notice how her highlight spots – forehead, nose, upper lip, chin, upper cheekbone and above the jawline (read my previous column “How to contour your face” to review the rules) are glowing beautifully with shimmer and that her shadows (temple, the bottom half of the cheekbone, the jawline, either side of the nose and the hairline) are velvety dark spots, beautifully darkened with a glowy but dense contour powder. The idea is to look sun kissed and dewy… even if there is no sun!

Illuminators: Liquid, powder, cream or all?
For a truly glowy look (the kind of look I have given Aamina Sheikh in the picture), I often use up to five kinds of illuminators, which gives me five sizes of illuminating particles. But I am a make-up artist! The key, as a layman, is to work out what you think will work for you.
Dry skin/dry cool weather
For this, use the liquid illuminator. This will give you an all over glow. After you do your contours, your left over skin is automatically effort-free highlight spots. I will often mix up to three liquid illuminators into a liquid foundation and set with a sheer powder. Add some oomph to this by mixing in some shimmer powder into your face powder.

Oily skin/humid weather
Use a powder highlighter or a formula that is oil-free.  There are many liquid formulas that become non-tacky as they dry, but I would say that your safest bet is to use a powder shimmer. Be sparing on highlight areas that you know are oily and generous on highlight areas that you know are not.
Normal skin/indoor evening
You can do all of the above! But you have another option. Do your base as you normally would and powder. Over the powder (yes, I mean this) add a shimmery cream blush. Be careful to pat gently while blending, too vigorous a motion will take off the base underneath.
Looking like too much? Just remember a disaster is easily averted by putting on swirl of matte powder on top. So don’t panic and just enjoy it!
Product guide
Liquid illuminators
Armani Fluid Sheers “0” is a pale pink, “1” is a pale gold
Nars “Orgasm” illuminator (a beautiful coral glow)
Benefit “Girl meets pearl”  is very sheer so use lots of illuminator and get coverage with concealer
Powder highlighters
MAC “Soft and Gentle” and “Light Year” mineralise skin finish (very shiny, be sparing)
NARS “Albatross” is pale gold and so easy to use
Benefit “High beam” is liquid but sets absolutely oil-free
The Body Shop “Shimmer Waves” (use the paler waves for highlighting and the warmer ones for contouring)
Cream blushes/highlighters
NARS “Enchanted” (a beautiful coral with chunky bits of shimmery glitter. One of my favourites)
MAC Cream colour blush in “Luna” (pale white) “Pearl” (pale white-ish gold or “Hush”(pale peach)
NARS “Copacabana” the multiple (you can use it on your brow bone, inner V and even to lighten up your lipstick)
Originally published in The Express Tribune, August 19th, 2012.